Foster & New Owner Handbook

What is fostering? Fostering is providing a temporary home for a homeless pet. We are only able to take in dogs if we have a foster home for them to go to, so fostering is truly lifesaving. Fostering also gives dogs a chance to learn how to live in a home with a family.

What are the requirements? Foster parents should be caring, patient and willing to follow policies and procedures in this manual and the foster care agreement. They are designed to help fosters be successful and to keep animals safe. Also, follow the Proper Housing and Care Requirements:

• Provide adequate fresh food and water, daily exercise and companionship.
• Do not take foster dogs to off leash dog parks or other off leash areas.
• Dogs can go outside for supervised play time/exercise. When outdoors, foster dogs must be kept on leash or in a securely fenced yard. Some dogs can jump/climb over or dig under fences surprisingly fast, so please be cautious.
• Do not allow your foster dog to socialize with other dogs, except those in your home.
• Keep a safe collar with an identification tag on the dog at all times If your foster pet gets loose, contact the foster coordinator immediately.
• Treat foster animals with medications and supplements prescribed by the dog’s veterinarian, unless alternative care arrangements have been approved by the foster coordinator.
• Notify the rescue or foster coordinator immediately if a foster animal bites a person or animal and the bite breaks the skin.
• Children under the age of 18 should not be left unsupervised with any foster animals
• Volunteers will be as accurate as possible when providing information about the history, medical and behavioral health of animals seeking foster placement. But we can make no guarantees regarding the dog’s age, health, temperament or behavior. The foster coordinator will help answer questions and provide resources and information.
• Make sure to administer monthly heartworm and flea/tick prevention that is provided.
• German Shepherds have sensitive stomachs and it is not uncommon for them to loose stools or diarrhea when being moved to a new environment or eating new diet. If you notice that your foster animal has mild, cold-like symptoms (sneezing or coughing occasionally, clear ocular or nasal discharge), diarrhea or have vomited, but are alert, active, eating and drinking well, please notify the foster coordinator so that it can be determined how best to proceed. If your foster animal has more severe symptoms, such as frequent vomiting, lethargy, yellow/green ocular or nasal discharge, previously undocumented hair loss, straining to urinate or defecate, etc., please notify the rescue or foster coordinator.
• Make sure to get approval from the rescue or foster coordinator BEFORE taking your foster dog to the vet. All medical expenses need to be approved by the OKGSR Board and treated through an OKGSR-approved veterinary office.
• If you encounter a medical emergency, contact the rescue or your foster coordinator immediately. If you suspect your dog has bloat and it is after business hours, please take your dog to the closest emergency vet clinic and contact us when you get there.

What are some of the potential risks of fostering an animal? Fostering is one of the most rewarding experiences you can have, but there are some potential risks. While rare, some of the possible risks are:

• Owned animals could catch a disease and/or a parasite from a foster animal
• Foster families, members of their household, or visitors could catch a disease and/or parasite from a foster animal (We do not, as a practice, send animals with known diseases transmittable to humans to foster.)
  For more information on zoonotic diseases, visit the CDC’s website.
• Owned animals could be injured or killed by a foster animal. This is preventable by following the procedures and guidelines recommended in this manual.
• Foster families, members of the household, or visitors could be injured by a foster animal
• Foster animals may destroy items in the home

The rescue can be reached by text at 918-928-9944 and email at oklahomagsr@gmail.com. Also, make sure you have the number of your foster coordinator. Read on for ways to help your new foster dog be the best dog they can be!

Before bringing a dog home, prepare carefully to ensure that the transition goes as smoothly as possible for everyone. There’s much to consider, including what rules to set for your new dog and what equipment you’ll need.

Considerations:

• Where is the crate and bed going to be for your new dog?
• Where is your new dog going to eat and drink?
• How will you instruct children (including any child visitors to your home) on dog care and safety rules? More information on dogs and children
• What will the schedule be for feedings, walks, playtime, bathroom breaks?
• What will the training schedule be for your new dog?
• How will you introduce your new dog to your resident pets? More information on introductions to dogs, cats and other pets
• Are all escape routes from the house blocked? If you have a fenced yard, make sure that the fence doesn’t have any holes. Set up gates at outside doors as a second line of defense.
• Is your house dog-proofed? Be sure that there are no loose wires, shoes, books, or clutter on the floors.
• Where is your new dog’s outdoor potty area going to be?
• Where will your new dog’s “safe zones” be? (Note: A safe zone is a quiet, stress-free area in the home where your new dog can rest without being bothered by people, other pets or loud noises. It can be a crate, or an area blocked by a door or a gate.)
• How will you introduce your new dog to visitors? Is your new dog going to be secured in their safe zone, allowed to greet visitors at the door, or kept on a leash when visitors arrive?

Equipment that OKGSR will provide:

If you didn’t receive these items reach out to your foster coordinator and we’ll get them to you!

• Collar, leash
• Water and food bowls, food
• Dog bed
• Poop bags (you can use grocery bags)
• Flea and tick preventive medication
• Toys
• Crate

Info About Your Foster Dog

You will be provided the following information about your foster dog. If you’re not given this info, please ask!

• The age and adult size of your new dog
• The energy level of your new dog
• What we know about your new dog’s behavioral and medical history
• Is your new dog on any medication and if so, how to administer the medication and how often

Your new dog might need a few days to weeks to feel comfortable in a new home. Complete adjust could take months, depending on the new environment and the dog’s personality. Fosters don’t typically have dogs this long, but it is important to remember to be patient. Common problems that you might experience are: shyness, barking, excitable behavior, clingy behavior, and attempts to escape. These behaviors are all normal – it’s important for you to respond appropriately and help your new dog adjust. If your dog snaps or bites, call the rescue or foster coordinator. Creating a consistent, structured environment with clear rules, such as the Say Please Program, may be helpful.

Shy and Nervous Dogs

• Help your new dog feel safe. Shy and nervous dogs benefit from a quiet place that they can retreat to and relax.
• A fearful dog is better off hanging around the house for a few days than going on walks.
• Some dogs do not eliminate for 24 hours in a new environment. If your new dog has not eliminated in more than a day, call the rescue group or foster coordinator for advice.
• Some dogs may also get diarrhea when moving to a new environment. Mixing in a spoonful of canned pumpkin puree can help. Reach out if you need more help.
• Your dog might need more time than you think to get comfortable. Be patient and avoid stress.
• Keep a leash attached to your dog. Fearful dogs might shy away when they get scared. The leash will help you manage the dog without touching them.
• If your new dog likes to be handled, gentle strokes might help them to relax.

Clingy Dogs

• It is pretty common for new dogs to stick to you like glue. Teach your dog that it’s OK to be separated from you. Set up a gate or a comfortable crate – with something for them to chew on like a food-stuffed Kong^® toy.
• Several times per day, after some exercise, separate them for you for a short time. Approach the confinement area only when your new dog is quiet and sits.

Barking Dogs

• Your new dog might react to all kinds of unfamiliar noises, might seem scared, and/or might bark to alert others. Help your dog adjust to these noises by pairing the noise with a treat. Teaching them that the sounds are nothing to be concerned over.
• If your new dog is easily startled by family members, they might bark or growl. Everyone should carry treats with them and offer to your new dog whenever they see them to condition the dog to accepting multiple people in the home.
• Dogs who are barking for attention should be ignored. Giving any type (this includes scolding or yelling at the dog) of attention to a dog who’s barking for attention rewards the behavior and encourages them to bark next time they want something.
• If your dog barks when left alone, play music and leave them with something to occupy their time alone, such as a food-stuffed Kong^® toy

Excitable Dogs

• Your new dog might be a happy ball of energy but might not possess good manners. An excitable dog will benefit from structured interactions. Teach your new dog how to sit for everything that they want.
• Don’t yell at or scold your dog for being unruly. They may interpret your behavior as joining in the excitement, escalating their behavior.
• Teach your new dog the rules of your house and make sure that you follow through as well. If you are consistent, your new dog will learn how to behave appropriately.
• Play sessions with you or other dogs (if the dog likes other dogs) often help.
• Physical exercise is always good to expel energy and stress; several walks a day will help.
• Mental stimulation is vital, such as working on a food puzzle or training can help to keep an excitable dog content.

Escaping Dogs

• Your new dog might try to escape from your home. Place a barrier or gate in front of the door.
• Your new dog might try to escape from your yard. Cover all the possible escape routes, and always supervise them when outside.

It’s important to recognize signs of stress in your new dog as you get to know them. Some signs of stress are subtle, while others are very obvious. If your dog has a history of anxious behavior in the shelter or in a former home, they may also show those behaviors in your home. Alternatively, stress signs can start to emerge with time. Stress can be caused by fear, changes in environment and routine, medical issues and/or encountering new pets and people. Some dogs will adjust to stressful situations more easily than others.

Factors That Can Cause Stress

• Moving to a new home
• Kenneling or pet-sitting
• A new animal or person staying or visiting in the house
• A new baby
• Noises, especially new and/or loud ones (e.g., construction, alarms, fireworks, thunderstorms)
• Medical issues and/or pain
• Strangers and crowds
• Fast, excited movement of humans (e.g., running, playing, sports)
• City environments
• Dog Events
• Not enough exercise
• Other pets
• Extreme temperatures
• Being left alone

Behavioral Signs of Stress

• Over-excitability: The dog doesn’t calm down and may be jumping, barking, whining, pacing, panting, constantly moving and/or taking treats from you roughly compared to normal.
• Destructiveness: The dog tears up objects and/or furniture, windows sills, walls, etc.
• Unusually quiet: The dog doesn’t play with toys or not interested in interacting with you or other family members; less active than normal.
• Repetitive or odd behaviors: The dog chases shadows or lights, chases their tail, constant licking/grooming, pacing or running in a repetitive pattern, etc.
• Hiding: The dog hides under or behind furniture, in another room and/or does not want to come out of their crate.
• Not eating: The dog doesn’t eat meals and/or doesn’t taking treats from you.
• Shut down: The dog is very quiet and rarely moves. The dog stays in one place most of the time and doesn’t show interest in life and the environment.

Body Language Indicators of Stress

• Turning head away or moving away from a person, animal or object while body is getting smaller – cowering.
• Stiff or tense body, tail is usually still and can be hanging down or standing up high
• Avoiding eye contact OR looking toward you with head turned slightly to opposite side showing the whites of their eyes.
• Trembling, tucked tail, panting, crouching
• Excess drooling, excess shedding, sweaty paws
• Humping, repetitive jumping
• Yawning, lip licking, shaking off (as if wet), scratching
• Loss of appetite and/or thirst
• Aggression (e.g., growl, snap, bite)

Helpful Tips

• If not addressed, stress can lead to more fear, anxiety, over-arousal and even aggression. More information about identifying the body language of stressed dogs.
• If your dog is barking constantly, is destructive and/or is pooping/peeing in the house only when left alone, this could be separation anxiety.

You can help your dog by modifying the environment slightly and the way you and others behave around them to help them cope with stress.

Do’s

• Create a ‘safe zone’ for your dog, which is a quiet area in the home where they can rest without being bothered by people, pets or loud noises (e.g., a spare room with the door shut or blocked by a gate or their own crate).
• Create a regular schedule or routine, helping your dog to feel safe, by creating predictable situations.
• Stay calm when you get ready to leave your dog alone and when you come home afterward. Excited or worried comings and goings can create anxiety and/or over-excitement for your dog.
• Give your dog chews and food toys as outlets for energy and enrichment (e.g., bully sticks, stuffed Kong^® toys and Busy Buddy^® Kibble Nibble toys).
• Ease your dog into new situations slowly while observing behavior. For example, stay close to home at first and walk down quieter streets. If your dog is doing well, go further away from home after a few days.
• Introduce your dog to people and friendly dogs slowly, one at a time.
• Spend time with your dog, as most dogs need social time with us. Play is good for some dogs; for others a walk is nice. Shy and fearful dogs may need more time to warm up to you.
• Exercise and play with your dog. Boredom and excess energy can cause stress.
• Train using humane methods and rewards (begin with just one easy training cue such as sit; even training can cause stress for dogs).
• The dog likely has been seen by a veterinarian recently, but undiscovered medical problems can cause stress. Contact us if you think this is the case and we can set up a vet appointment.
• Observe your dog’s body language for stress indicators. More information on identifying the body language of stressed dogs

Don’ts

• Don’t force your dog into something they don’t want to do.
• Don’t use punishments and corrections; this can create fear and stress for your dog.
• Don’t expose your dog to loud, crowded places or to noises that aren’t appropriate for dogs. (e.g., parades, parties, fireworks).
• Don’t leave your dog alone for long periods without breaks and entertainment. Leave them with a stuffed food toy like a Kong^®
• Don’t expose your dog to an overcrowded and rowdy dog park. If you have assessed your dog is dog friendly, start off with one-on-one play dates with other friendly dogs.

Once your new dog is comfortable with your home and family, you can begin to slowly introduce them to new people and environments. Always pay attention to your dog’s body language, as new experiences can sometimes be stressful.

Do’s

• Keep your dog on a leash when on walks. Start with walks in quiet areas.
• Let your dog sniff and explore their new surroundings at their own pace.
• Introduce your dog to people in the home slowly and one at a time.
• Although some dogs don’t want doggie friends, other dogs will welcome a canine pal. Begin by introducing your dog to a dog you know that is calm and friendly. More information about dog introductions

Don’ts

• Don’t take your dog to crowded events. Focus on you, your new dog, and your immediate family.
• Don’t let people crowd your dog. Make sure to give your dog space to move away from people who overwhelm or scare your dog.
• Don’t leave your new dog tied up outside of stores, businesses or restaurants. Your dog could get injured or stolen.

Having your dog meet new people can be fun for your dog and the people they meet but it can also bring some challenges. Friendly, excited dogs often jump on people, and fearful dogs may need a little space or help meeting new people. Have your dog meet people you know first. Learn your dog’s body language, and watch for signs of stress, uncertainty, or fear. If your dog enjoys meeting new people, follow the tips below to help those greetings be successful.

Do’s

• Have your dog on a loose leash while you are standing or sitting when greeting new people. This will help keep them close and allow you to remove them from the meeting if needed.
• Supervise your dog’s interactions so you can be sure the friendly greeting is mutual; don’t leave your dog unattended.
• Bring tasty treats with you and encourage people to give your dog treats when they meet – especially if your dog is shy. This will encourage your dog to like these interactions.
• Use a soft, happy voice to encourage your dog to say “hello” to the person. Ask the person to remain relaxed and still and allow the dog to sniff them.
• If your dog is really excited and starts jumping on anyone, ask your dog to ‘sit’ before being petted, or hold onto the leash so your dog cannot reach the person. Friends can be exciting, and your dog may need help to keep from jumping.
• Reinforce training with tricks or basics commands to keep your dog feeling confident in public interactions with strangers. Earning treats and praise from a another person can help your dog feel like the “good dog” they are!

Don’ts

• Don’t let people overwhelm your dog. Leaning over, hugging or crowding can be stressful. Give your dog space to move away, if and when needed.
• DON’T LET PEOPLE PUT THEIR FACE CLOSE TO THE DOG’S FACE, AS THIS CAN CAUSE THEM ANXIETY.
• Don’t force your dog to receive petting or touch when he or she is showing fearful body language, like moving away, tucking their tail, cowering, and/or trembling. Move your dog away from the person and don’t continue the introduction or interaction.
• Some dogs can become reactive to people and lunge bark or growl if fearful. If your dog is barking and growling at people, please move away from the person and seek the help from the rescue or your foster coordinator. A little help can go a long way!

Children and dogs can be great, lifelong friends, but it is up to us as their guardians to keep their interactions safe. Children may not be able to read a dog’s stressed body language, and injuries can occur. Many common problems are avoidable.

Helpful tips

• If you have children, foster a dog who likes children. Your foster coordinator can help; they may have information about a dog’s experience with children from a previous home. But remember, that previous exposure to children doesn’t guarantee that a dog will be safe around your child. It’s always a good idea to have your children meet the dog prior to taking them home.
• Create a safe and comfortable home for your kids and your dog. Your dog needs a quiet place to stay away from noises and activity during their downtime.
  – Use a crate or gates to create child-free zones for your dog.
  – Teach children to stay away from your dog when it’s in the child-free zone.
  – Avoid cornering your dog, especially children.
  – Make sure that your dog has an escape route, and can get away from kids if they want. Don’t force them to interact.
• Closely supervise interactions between your child and dog, intervening if necessary. Being in the same room is not supervision – you must watch your children with your dog at all times. Your dog should be in their “child-free zone” when you are trying to multitask. Children have good intentions, but your dog might not see it that way. Learn to read your dog’s stress signals and body language. Intervene if your dog displays any of the following:
  – Avoiding your children
  – Cowering
  – Licking their lips when no food is nearby
  – Panting when not hot or thirsty
  – Moving in slow motion, walking slowly when near children
  – Growling
  – Hiding or attempting to hide
  – Acting sleepy and yawning when not tired
  – Moving away, looking away
  – Pacing
  – Hyper-vigilant, darting eyes, looking quickly in many directions
• Teach kids how to interact with your dog. Always have children invite your dog to approach them, rather than having children approach your dog. If your dog chooses not to approach, children should leave them alone. Remind children to not grab or squeeze your dog, as these actions can hurt. Accidents can happen really quickly, so children shouldn’t play games like chase, wrestling or tug. TEACH CHILDREN NOT TO PUT THEIR FACES RIGHT IN YOUR DOG’S FACE AND THAT MOST DOGS DON’T LIKE HUGS.
• Don’t forget to let children help with age-appropriate dog chores!
• The key to safety around dogs is prevention. Be proactive.
• If you feel uncomfortable with your dog’s behavior around your children ask for help from the rescue or foster coordinator.
• For more information, visit Family Paws^® Parent Education.

Dog relationships are like people relationships. Some dogs will become playmates, others will enjoy the companionship of another dog and others just aren’t interested in other dogs. Become familiar with signs of stress from this Body Language Poster before introducing dogs.

Do’s

• Follow any instructions you were given about how long to keep your new dog separated from your resident dogs. New dogs may pose a health risk to your resident dogs for a short time period.
• If you have more than one dog, introduce each separately. Begin with your most calm and friendly dog, and make sure bones, toys and food are put away.
• Introduce dogs in an area with lots of space, ideally away from your home, like a quiet park. If neutral territory isn’t available, it’s generally better to introduce dogs outside.
• Stay calm and don’t hold your breath. Your dog is more likely to stay calm if you are calm.
• Walk the dogs near each other, keeping a safe distance of 10-20 feet between. Give them time to get comfortable, sniffing the area and walking around.
• If they’re calm and not aggressive, let them approach each other to sniff. Observe body language. Relaxed bodies, wagging tails, open mouths, and play bows are all good.
• Keep the leashes loose and move with the dogs as they sniff each other briefly.
• Let them interact for 3-5 seconds, praising and talking in a nice voice and then call your dog in an upbeat tone of voice, while gently pulling them apart. Take a short break and repeat. Short greetings help keep interactions calm.
• After a few successful sniffs, take them for a side-by-side walk with one person walking each dog.
• If things are going well, put the dogs in a fenced area, if available. Leave the leashes on, but dragging behind them, so that you can quickly pick the leashes up if you need to separate them.
• Watch for aggressive behavior including barking, baring teeth, growling or snapping. If it happens, gently separate them. Take a break and then try again.
• Aggression is a form of communication. It can be normal for a dog to growl a bit when establishing boundaries. Slow introductions are key.
• If the dogs fight, distract them with a loud noise – clap, whistle and/or voice. Pick up their leashes and separate them. If it’s serious and they resist separation, try spraying them with a hose.
• Ask for help if needed. Call the shelter/rescue group, foster coordinator or seek the advice of a positive reinforcement trainer or veterinary behaviorist.
• Keep your dogs separated when you are away until it is clear that they are getting along well.

Don’ts

• Don’t keep leashes tight or allow the leashes to tangle when dogs meet. This can cause tension between dogs.
• Don’t let the dogs rush up to each other. Go slowly and keep things controlled.
• Don’t yell at the dogs. This can cause tension between them.
• Don’t grab collars to separate dogs from a fight. You may get injured.
• Don’t pull on the leashes to separate fighting dogs who are grabbing each other.

In-Home Tips

• Your new dog can drag a light leash behind them while inside for the few first days. This gives you a little control while they settle in.
• Give each dog a ‘safe zone.’ A safe zone is a quiet area blocked by a gate or a crate in the home where each dog can rest without being bothered by people, other pets or loud noises.
• Give each dog their own area for water, food bowls, and chews. You may also feed dogs separately to avoid food guarding. Pick up food bowls and chews when dogs are finished.
• Learn each dog’s personality. Some dogs are very playful, while some are more relaxed. Observe if one is more playful than the others and pay attention to their tolerance levels. Interrupt and redirect interactions if needed to give them a break.

Introducing a new dog to a resident cat can be challenging and should be done slowly and carefully. There is no way to “cat-test” a dog. Take care and remember that dogs can see cats as prey. If you want to attempt to introduce your dog to your cat, here are some suggestions, but it is always safer to keep dogs and cats that don’t know each other in separate areas of your home.

The First Few Days

• Keep your new dog completely separate from your cat for the first few days, at a minimum. They will be able to sense and smell each other in the home, without having to meet.
• Keep doors closed with reminder signs on them, so that pets can’t access each other.
• Trade off areas where the pets stay so that they can grow accustomed to each other’s smells.
• After a few days, if both pets are comfortable (cat is not hiding or hissing when hears dog, or dog is not barking or hovering at the closed door to the cat) and relaxed in their separate areas, you can begin to introduce them to each other.

Introduction

• Exercise your dog before introducing them to your cat(s).
• If you have multiple cats, introduce your new dog to your most confident cat first.
• Your new dog should be on a leash when introducing to your cat(s). Your cat should be allowed to roam free.
• If your new dog can’t focus on people and treats in the presence of your cat, put more distance between them. Use gates (e.g., a baby gate) to separate your cat and dog.
• Keep the first introduction short. Let your dog look at your cat and then refocus your dog back to you by offering special treats. Reward your dog with praise, petting, and treats for being calm.
• If things go well and both pets are calm, allow your dog to sniff your cat. Once again, redirect your dog away after a brief interaction.
• If things didn’t go well during the first meeting (cat is hissing, growling, or cowering away from dog, or dog is barking, rushing cat), give your dog and cat a break. Try again tomorrow with your cat at a further distance away from your dog.
• If you are worried that your dog is too intense or being aggressive toward your cat(s), ask for help. Call the rescue or your foster coordinator.

Do’s:

• Always supervise your pets and keep them separated from each other when you’re not home.
• Teach your dog to ‘leave it‘ and use it to distract them away from your cat.
• Provide fearful cats with plenty of hiding places and escape routes. Dark, quiet spots or high perches that your dog can’t get to are ideal.

Don’ts

• Don’t allow your new dog to bark at, chase, or pester your cat.
• Don’t hold your cat in your arms or on your lap when they are afraid. You could be injured.
• Don’t force your pets to interact. If you try it, take the introduction process slow.

Crate training can help your dog in many ways, such as providing them with a safe place to rest when unsupervised, keeps them from chewing human belongings, and aids in potty training. Start right away when you bring your dog home. Some dogs will make faster progress than others. Dogs need to be trained to be confined. Only proceed to a more difficult step if your dog is going into the crate willingly. If your dog starts to run out of the crate or is still going in reluctantly, slow down the process.

Crate Basics

• The crate should be large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around in. If the crate is too big, your dog may soil one area and sleep in another. If it’s too small, your dog will be uncomfortable.
• Put a soft bedding material in the crate and observe your dog to make sure they don’t chew and/or consume it.
• Pick an area that isn’t too busy or noisy, but where your dog can be near family members.
• Adult dogs shouldn’t be confined for longer than 4-6 hours at a time, except at night when they’re sleeping. Puppies can only be confined for 1-3 hours under 12 weeks and 2-4 hours for puppies that are 12-24 weeks, without a bathroom break.

Crate Training Process

First step: going into crate on cue and waiting for release.

• Throw a tasty treat in back of the crate and leave the crate door open. Praise your dog when they go in for the treat. While they’re inside, drop a few more treats in the middle so they’re in the crate eating for a few seconds. A toy or a ball may work for some dogs too.
• Let your dog leave the crate willingly, as they leave the crate give a release word such as “free”, and then throw a treat into the crate again. Repeat this 5-10 times during a session and do 10 sessions throughout the day.
• Once your dog goes into the crate willingly, start to teach the cue word for going in. Say, “crate,” “kennel” or “bed” as your dog enters the crate after the thrown treat.
• After a couple days of saying the word ‘crate’ as your dog enters, start to say the cue word for your dog to go into the crate. Wait for them to go in, and then drop several treat in the crate.

Second step: closing door and increasing duration.

• Once your dog is willingly going in and out, try closing the door for 5 seconds while they’re eating treats in there. Gradually increase their time in the crate. Before you open the door, ask your dog sit while you open the door and then give the release word “free” to release them from the crate.
• Try to keep your dog in the crate for longer periods of time. Give them a stuffed Kong^® once they enter. Close the crate door and praise them. Work up to having your dog stay in the crate for 10 minutes while you move around near the crate. Gradually increase the time in the crate.
• Feed your dog meals and give them chew toys in the crate. Leave the crate door open the first few times, then try closing the door. Throw treats and toys randomly in the crate while your dog is not looking to encourage them to go in and explore on their own.

Leaving the House

• Have your dog go into the crate for a yummy stuffed Kong^®, close the crate door and then leave the house. Try leaving your dog home alone in the crate for 10 minutes. Slowly work your way up to an hour, and then several hours.
• Put music or TV on to drown out noises that may wake your dog up or make them anxious.
• Don’t get over-excited to take your dog out of their crate or get nervous about putting your dog inside it. Keep your departures and arrivals low key.

Troubleshooting Tips

• Don’t let your dog out for barking and whining; ignore them. If you think your dog may need to go out, wait for a quiet moment or have them ‘touch’ or sit first, and then open the crate door.
• Some dogs like their crate covered. Try a light sheet or blanket over the crate.
• If your dog chews up their crate bed, try a material without stuffing, like a towel or blanket. If necessary, your dog can sleep on the crate floor. If your dog pulls the cover into the crate and chews that, you may need to put the crate in a closet or a darker part of the home.
• If your dog poops or pees in their crate, re-examine how long you’re leaving them inside. Shorter time frames might be needed, especially if your dog is a puppy. Try a different texture of blanket or towel too; some dogs like to poop or pee on a certain texture of bedding.
• If your dog hasn’t been crate trained or if the crate is highly stressful for them, they might get hurt trying to escape from it. Use a ‘safe confinement doggie area’ instead, such as a dog pen or a kitchen or hallway blocked off with a gate.
• Crates aren’t recommended for dogs with signs of separation anxiety. More information about separation anxiety
• Don’t use the crate as a punishment tool. It should be a safe, positive place for your dog.

Aggression is a form of communication. This is how dogs attempt to resolve conflicts with people and other dogs. Aggression usually starts with warning signals such as tensing or freezing of their whole body, staring, guttural barking, lunging, showing teeth and/or growling. If warnings aren’t heeded, dogs may progress to snapping, nipping, and/or biting. When aggression happens, safety always comes first. Keep pets and people safe by preventing aggression from occurring. Observe your new dog’s body language for warning signals and seek help when needed.

Do’s

• Stop the aggression from continuing or escalating. Stop what you were doing when the aggression happened. If you were petting your dog when they started growling, stop petting your dog. If your dog is barking at a stranger, move your dog away or tell the stranger to stop approaching your dog.
• Redirect or distract your dog away from the person and/or item that they are reacting to by getting their attention and then throwing a toy or treat away from the person and/or item.
• Move away from whatever you dog was reacting to. Safely cross the street if needed.
• If your dog is showing aggressive behavior toward you, don’t turn your back on your dog and don’t stare into their eyes. If needed, go slowly into another room while moving sideways.
• Avoid situations that bring on aggressive behavior in your dog.
• Remember some aggression can be health related, especially if it is sudden in onset and has never happened before. Your dog should be examined by a veterinarian.
• If your dog has snapped or bitten and/or you feel that you are in danger, call the rescue or your foster coordinator.
• If you have been bitten, seek help and see a doctor. Contact the rescue or foster coordinator as soon as possible.

Don’ts

• Don’t use confrontational methods. Yelling, hostile body language, and physical correction can escalate the situation and cause more fear and aggression. Don’t corner your dog or hold them down with your hands.
• Don’t run away from an aggressive dog, as this can trigger a chase.

Tips That Can Help Prevent Aggression

• If your dog won’t give up a toy, trade it for a treat or another toy. Don’t attempt to pull it from their mouth.
• If you can do it safely, gently groom and handle your dog on a regular basis while giving them treats.
• Try not to startle your dog from behind or while they’re sleeping. Approach your dog quietly and speak softly to get their attention.
• Always supervise and monitor your dog’s interactions with strangers.
• Use basic training cues for your dog to gain access to the things they want. The Say Please Program is an excellent way to do this.
• Give your dog plenty of exercise and enrichment like walks, food toys and puzzles. Play games such as fetch and find it.
• Careful introductions can help dogs who are mildly aggressive when meeting new dogs.

This program creates and maintains a positive, non-confrontational relationship between you and your dog by teaching them to sit (or perform another behavior) in order to get what they want. It also helps your dog learn self-control and build confidence in different environments. A dog who sits every time they want something (e.g. attention from people) is much easier to live with than a dog that hasn’t learned to say please and jumps up or barks when they want something.

Do’s

• Teach your dog to ‘touch‘ or ‘sit‘ before participating in the ‘Say Please’ program.
• Your dog must ‘say please’ by performing a cue (e.g. sit, touch) before getting what they want. For example, your dog must sit before being fed, going outside, being petted, putting on the leash, and/or given attention.
• Ignore all unwanted behavior. Your dog should not get any attention (eye contact, talking to, or physically restraining) when they’re barking, jumping, or demanding attention in any way.
• Use ‘Say Please’ as an alternative to an unwanted behavior. Have your dog “sit” or “touch” before being let out of their crate, or to sit instead of jumping when you put their leash on. As your dog learns more behaviors you can use those in place of “sit” or “touch”.

Don’ts

• Don’t require that your dog sit before doing things that they do NOT want (e.g. going back indoors if they love being outside, before having a bath, or before having their nails trimmed)
• Don’t require older dogs to do exercises that they can’t do well or don’t need to do. If your dog doesn’t jump onto people, they don’t need to sit to get attention. Older dogs may have pain and arthritis, so they shouldn’t have to sit for everything they want. If they’re calm, they can have the things they want for being calm.
• Don’t ask fearful dogs to do exercises that might make them more fearful, such as making them sit to get petted by someone they’re trying to move away from.

Loose dogs in cars can be dangerous. Dogs that are not properly secured in the car can be thrown around during accidents, hurting themselves and people in the car. Fearful dogs may need more time to get used to car rides; it should be done slowly and carefully. Here are some tips for traveling safely.

Getting Your Dog in the Car

• Keep your dog on leash. Do not drop the leash until your dog is safely secured in the car.
• Use treats and toys to lure your dog into the car if needed.
• When the ride is over, make sure your dog is leashed or in a crate before opening the car door.

Restraint and/or Confinement Options in the Car

• Crate: A secured crate in the back of a vehicle is one of the safest choices. Secure the crate to the car with bungee cords or strap it to the seat belt or hooks in the car.
• Harnesses: A safety harness for dogs that clips or straps onto the seatbelt to keep your dog secured is a safe choice.
• Gate: A physical barrier/gate put between the seats and the back of a vehicle can keep a dog safely in one area.
• If a crate, harness or gate is not an option, your dog should ride in the back seat. Secure the leash by tying it to a handle on the ceiling or wrap around headrest. Tie the leash tight enough so that your dog can’t jump into the front seat but keep it loose enough so that your dog can stand if the car stops suddenly and your dog falls to the floor.

Other Safety Concerns

• Leave windows only open slightly for air. Allowing a dog to put its head out the window can result in injuries to its eyes and head. Turn off power windows, as dogs’ paws can trigger them.
• Don’t leave your dog alone in the car, especially during temperatures hotter than 70°F or colder than 35°F. Any outside temperature could be cause for someone to break the window to release a dog they think is in danger.
• Never put your dog in the back of an open truck bed.
• It’s best to let the new dog be the only dog in the car for rides unless one of the dogs is in a crate.

Helpful Tips

• Paper towels (or towels) and pet stain cleaner should be kept on hand for dogs that poop, pee, and/or vomit in the car.
• Provide chews and/or favorite toys. Some dogs do better in the car when they have something to chew on or play with.

From: Fetch by WebMD

Dog bloat is a common condition that can be dangerous, even deadly. Dogs who have it need treatment right away. Know the signs so you can recognize when your pup needs help.

What Is Dog Bloat?

Bloat happens when a dog’s stomach fills with gas, food, or fluid, making it expand. The stomach puts pressure on other organs. It can cause dangerous problems, including:

• No blood flow to their heart and stomach lining
• A tear in the wall of their stomach
• A harder time breathing

In some cases, the dog’s stomach will rotate or twist, a condition that vets call gastric dilatation volvulus. It traps blood in the stomach and blocks it from returning to the heart and other areas of the body. This can send your dog into shock.

Symptoms

Bloat usually comes on very quickly. At first, your dog may show signs that their stomach hurts. They may:

• Act restless
• Drool
• Have a swollen stomach
• Look anxious
• Look at their stomach
• Pace
• Try to vomit, but nothing comes up
• Stretch with their front half down and rear end up

As the condition gets worse, they may:

• Collapse
• Have pale gums
• Have a rapid heartbeat
• Be short of breath
• Feel weak

If you think your pet has bloat, get them to a clinic right away. If dogs don’t get treatment in time, the condition can kill them.

Causes

Vets aren’t sure what causes bloat, but there are some things that raise a dog’s risk for it, including:

• Eating from a raised food bowl
• Having one large meal a day
• Eating quickly
• A lot of running or playing after they eat
• Other dogs they are related to have had bloat
• Eating or drinking too much
•  Stress

Any dog can have bloat, but it’s much more common in deep-chested, large breeds, like Akitas, Boxers, Basset Hounds, and German Shepherds. Some are at a higher risk than others, including Great Danes, Gordon Setters, Irish Setters, Weimaraners, and St. Bernards.

Treatment

The treatment a dog gets depends on how severe their condition is.

First, the vet may put a tube into your dog’s throat and down to their stomach to release the pressure that has built up. Sometimes, a twisted stomach can keep the tube from passing through. If that’s the case, the vet may put a large, hollow needle through their belly into their stomach and release the pressure that way.

If your dog is in shock, the vet will start giving them fluids through an IV immediately, usually with antibiotics.

The vet will take X-rays to see if their stomach is twisted. If it is, your dog will have emergency surgery to untwist it and put it back in its normal position. The vet also will fix the stomach in the right place to keep your dog from getting bloat again. They’ll also check to see if the condition damaged other parts of their body.

Prevention

Bloat can be scary, but there are ways you can keep it from happening to your dog:

• Don’t use a raised bowl unless your vet says your dog needs one.
• Don’t let them run or play a lot right before or after meals.
• Feed them a few small meals throughout the day instead of one or two large ones.
• Make sure they drink a normal amount of water.
• For predisposed breeds, your vet will sometimes tack the stomach when your dog gets spayed or neutered

From the ASPCA